Heater- Range Rover



I had the same trouble with my '91 RRC's heater blower. First it quit working on one speed, then another, then went belly up altogether. I opened up the dash and pulled the heater switch. It's technically not servicable, but I prized up the tabs and opened it up to perform the post mortem. The contacts had pitted out. I cleaned them all up with a bit of emery cloth and popped it back together, holding the case together with a heavy rubber band (per Red Green "This is only temporary unless it works"). It held for about a year until the rubber band snapped. Now I'll have to disembowel the dash again and put the case back together correctly as cold weather is here again. I'm thinking of soldering a capacitor across the sets of contacts so that further pitting is less likely. (Why the heck didn't LR do this anyway? There's a PCB for the contacts shouldn't have been too hard.) I'm not saying this is your trouble, but if you have a spare afternoon (and evening) to gut the dash, it's worth a try. And why didn't I just replace the switch? They're $50 US! For a switch!


Kevin W. Olson

To <RRO@koan.team.net>

Date Sat, 7 Dec 2002 082454 -0500

Subject [rro] heater control

Reply-To rro@land-rover.team.net

My heater is acting up, it only works when it feels like it. When working the

it only works on low (1) position and high (3) position. The motor runs and

sounds fine it just won't switch on and off when you want it to. Controls work

fine for the AC. I was thinking along the lines of the resistor or the

switch. Any thoughts on this. The last thing I want to do is rip out the

whole heater assay and find it was just the switch or resistor. I changed the

relay to no effect. 





I had one made up locally for my '92 Range Rover. A local radiator shop made one for me based on a GM car (he just changed the direction of the lines). It's all copper, and it kicks out a LOT of heat. After almost 2 years, I'm extremely pleased. I don't have one that you could use as a template; however, I'm pretty sure that Joe kept my original core (I had the same idea), and would be happy to make up more. I don't recall exactly how much it cost, but know it was under $100 (I'm thinking around $85-90 for the GM core and labor).


Brian Graftaas Moorhead, MN







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