Potential help in removing the cross member for trans filter changes is this hydraulic port-a-power ram:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=44899

$89.95 as of Feb. 2002

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This info is from  www.rangerovers.net  

Thanks John Brabyn and James Howard

http://dana.ucc.nau.edu/~jdh6/landrover.html

To change the transmission filter in our 89 Range Rover, I had to lower the cross member. I tried the jack pushing the 2x4 trick, but there is not enough room to fit it up there. So, I made a tool to do the job, and it worked like a charm. The tool is described at the end of this message.

Anyway, the parts you should have on hand to do this job are:
filter
the two o-rings
oil pan gasket
drain plug washer
the two gaskets that go between the exhaust manifolds and the down pipes
the nuts that attach the downpipes to the exhaust manifold (because they are easy to loose, and the one-piece nut and washer are much easier to deal with than separate pieces.)

The steps are:
1) Remove the nuts holding the downpipes to the manifolds.
2) Lower the downpipes
3) Drain the transmission fluid
4) Unbolt the crossmember. There are four bolts on each side
5) Spread the chassis. You don't have to spread it much before you can pull the cross member down. You don't have to pull it all the way out. See below for my cheap spreader.
6) Follow the procedure in the workshop manual.
7) Replace everything. There was a fair amount of rust on mine between the crossmember and the frame, even though this is an Arizona car, so you may want to repaint that area.

You may not have to drop the downpipes. I had to to get two of the crossmember bolts out. I don't know if you can lower the crossmember enough to get the oil pan out if you don't drop the downpipes.

I made a tool to spread the chassis our of two pieces of 2x4 and two pieces of 3/4" x 30" threaded rod. I cut the 2x4's to 17". I then drilled a 3/4" hole 2" from the end, and another one 7" from the same end. Here is a rough sketch:

|<--------------------- 17" -------------------->| | | |<----- 7" ----->| | | | | ->| 2" |<- | | | | | |

+------------------------------------------------+ | | | | | -O- -O- | | | | | +------------------------------------------------+ \ \ - 3/4" dia. hole, two places

Setting the boards up vertically, with the hole in the end at the bottom, they fit nicely between the exhaust pipe and the frame on each side. These will be the fingers that pry your chassis apart. I stick one 3/4" rod through the upper holes, with nuts and washers on the inside faces of the wood, and the other rod through the holes in the ends of the boards. I put nuts and washers on the outside of this one. Now, with everything finger tight, I get my wrench out and start tightening one of the the lower nuts. The boards will pivot about the centre rod, pushing the frame rails apart.

James Howard
72 SIII 88
89 RR
Flagstaff, AZ USA
jhoward@sextans.lowell.edu

 

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