Today's task consisted of replacing a broken Xfer case shifting bracket, broken by previous owner.  Purchased a used bracket from a Seattle area rover wrecking yard, 65$US, and went at it.  The replacement part had the electric solenoid interlock on it, where my original (well, the part that was on my truck, who knows if IT was original) did not.  I just pulled out the solenoid and removed the pin that locks the shifting mechanism so it operated all the time, without 12 volts applied to the solenoid. 

The second part of this job was to free up my very sticky auto box shifter cable.  It was stiff to shift from Park to Drive, and back, with the new cable priced around $275, I thought I'd try lubricating it, so I removed it and soaked both ends in gallons of wd40.  Later I had the idea to take a piece of 2" PVC, cap one end, and put the cable inside the pipe, fill it with wd40, and let it sit overnight.  I also disassembled the shifting mechanism and lubricated all moving parts.  From the looks of some of the pins and parts in there... someone had been there before me.  Who knows what problem occurred there years ago.

Another task done while the console was apart was to install heavy cable from the battery to the rear stereo area for future use.  I ran 2 #8 gauge wires for power, and 2 18-6c for relay control or speaker feeds.  I ran the cable through the underside of the cubby so I have  good 12volt battery feeds there for any future devices, like a "real" cigarette accessory outlet to replace the cheesy, flimsy, light duty OEM one, or 120volt inverter.

In the end, the shifter cable required replacement, so I bought one from Mansfield for about $150US and went thru all you see below...again... and replaced the part.


I got my used xfer case bracket from:
Specialized British 
3664 Omec Circle Rancho 
Cordova, CA 95742 
They are in a suburb of Sacramento


All my extra wires are on the RH, passenger side of the console.


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You can see the broken Hi/Lo bracket.


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The offending auto-box shift cable.

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To remove the auto box shift cable, you need to disassemble the shift mechanism, some of the screws could be rusted and need to be drilled out.  There are rubberized weather seals around the mechanism, mine ripped on removal.

Shift Lock Solenoid: Now is the time to disable the shift lock solenoid so you don't get stuck unable to shift out of park due to a failed brake light switch.  If being able to shift from Park without your foot on the brake is anathema to you, then skip this part.  The next two pictures are BIG files so you can see the actual solenoid after the engagement pin was ground down to a nub, thus disabling it.  Easy, and worth it on a 12 year old Lucas powered British car.


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Now here for replacing the autobox cable with a new part...




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