Battery Monitor Installation
Updated pictures of gauge installation in my 1992 RRC:
I cheated and stole the passenger side seat heater button and now use it for my ARB Lockers Air Pump under the hood... :>)
http://www.xantrex.com/products/product.asp?did=199 for info on the Link10 monitor.
The final resting place for the Link10 Battery Monitor, I got a 2 inch hole saw and a big drill and let 'er rip. Lots of room behind the fascia panel for routing wires. You'll have to pull out a big piece of foam rubber that Land Rover used as sound deadener.
The battery, follow the big yellow negative battery cable to the shunt. The shunt is required for measuring current in and out of the battery.
...And now, the shunt...nestled between the Evap Canister and the windscreen solvent tank.
Current Battery: Conventional Lead-Acid SLI, $58 @ Northern Battery,
Optima Red Top SLI: $???, 9/2002
Optima Yellow Top Deep-Cycle D34:
RC: reserve capacity in minutes, amount of time battery can drive a 25amp
I see two values that would be worth changing on the E-meter.
The first, and most important, is Puekert Exponent. This should be set to 1.1 or 1.09. Factory setting is 1.25. The factory setting makes the E-meter reduce the amp-hours faster than it should, making it harder to get back up to 100% state of charge.
The second value you may want to change is the charged voltage parameter. The E-Meter is set to 13.2v. Theoretically it can be set to 15v for the Optima, but our charging systems will never get that high. I would recommend 13.5v. This will prevent the system from prematurely resetting the computer to "full".
I'm trying to get more info on the Charging Efficiency Factor (CEF) it sounds as though the factory setting is OK, which is 90%.
I should probably own an electric or hybrid vehicle. I'm currently working on some hybrid boat projects and can't help but think about a hybrid RR.
v/r, Larry Michelon